At just under 290,000 square miles, Borneo is the third largest island in the world. As we approach the Malaysian port of Kota Kinabalu, at its northern end, it feels like the largest floating forest in the world. The logs are coming at us thick and fast, and they're big enough to do serious damage to the boat. We've managed to stay offshore far enough during the night to escape the worst of them, but now as we come closer to land, we might as well be blindfolded, picking our way across a minefield.
Despite having to slow down during the night for our first head sea for some time, we've made good progress. When we do get a few squalls, the rain is so heavy it actually calms the sea down.
And then we're in KK, in Malaysia's most northerly province, Sabah. Sutera Harbour is a stunning new complex of resort, marina and golf and country club, with swimming pools including one Olympic sized, all built in the last couple of years on reclaimed land. Fringed with palms, and lush with flowers, it's a real paradise setting, and clearly the place to come for a relaxing holiday.
We're greeted by Danny Tan and George Lam from Sutera Harbour, along with a number of local journalists, most of whom can't believe that such a tiny boat has come here all the way from Singapore. And then we're ushered into the restaurant for a cooling beer and delicious lunch.
While Alan completes the immigration paperwork - the most painless of the entire trip - Steve and I take a shower. And then we come up with a wheeze. This is the perfect place for a haircut. After more than a month away from home, my grade three is starting to look a bit like a toilet brush. By the time we're showered, George has the resort salon on standby, and in we go for a haircut which puts my usual barbers in the shade. Fast, efficient, friendly.
We've said it about previous stops, but we really, really like Sutera Harbour. A world class resort for a world class team! I can definitely see myself returning there, mixed with an energetic yomp up the highest mountain in Borneo, nearby Mount Kinabalu.
Christened "the land beneath the wind", Sabah lives up to its name. There are plenty of dramatic clouds, and the odd downpours, but beautiful warm sunshine without the oppressive heat and humidity we've experienced in previous days. We're sorry to go - which I guess you can tell - but now we're under way again. Next stop Subic bay.
Clive Tully
FACTBOX
Singapore - Kota Kinabalu
Time of leg: 1 day 18 hours 10 minutes
Distance covered: 746 nautical miles
Average speed: 17.69 knots
Fuel consumed: 1,428.5 litres
Average fuel consumption: 1.91 litres / nautical mile
Next stop: Subic Bay, Philippines
ETA: Friday
Copyright Clive Tully ©2002
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