For ages they've been invisible to us. Then as the sun slips lower and lower, piercing through the layers of dark clouds, suddenly a silhouette of the mountains of the Fox Islands appears, a warm water-colour glow in the gaps between the mountains and the clouds. But it's there for just a fleeting moment, lost as the sun sinks further.

Somewhere over in that direction is Dutch Harbor, the next main settlement along the Aleutian Islands from Adak. This was our "Plan B" stop. There was a moment when we thought that we'd burned off so much fuel in the heavy seas out of Adak that we might not have enough to make it all the way to Kodiak. Fortunately the calculations work out (only just).

Whilst it might have been nice to see Dutch Harbor, as well as the US Customs Official who would have been delighted to present us with a copy of our cruising permit for the United States, we opt to bash on to Kodiak. The next opportunity to pick it up will be Eureka in California.

We've seen some monster waves out of Adak, and the point where we cross from the Bering Sea back into the North Pacific - Atka Pass - has seas unlike anything I've ever seen before. The waves seethe and boil like wild rapids in a fast flowing mountain river. No wonder it has a fearsome reputation amongst local fishermen.

Fortunately, as Friday wears on, the winds abate and the sea flattens off somewhat. The barometer has risen, which is a good sign. We still have a following sea, and at times we're surfing at over 20 knots. For the first time in days we can feel the heat of the sun as it warms the cabin, and we marvel at the grace of an albatross as it wheels just above the waves.

Despite our welcome stop in Adak, we're all feeling quite weary. It's a cumulative effect - weeks of disturbed sleep, no sleep, being battered by the elements, not eating regularly. But we do know one thing. However badly the weather decides to treat us during our run down the west coast of America, it can't be any worse than what we've already endured. The point, of course, where someone mutters "famous last words..."

Clive Tully

Copyright Clive Tully ©2002
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